Black women see weaves as extension of selves

TAMPA - After decades of getting her hair relaxed with a chemical straightener, Kathy Lewis decided it was time to take a break.

"I wanted to grow it out, and I wanted a different look," says Lewis, 48, of Wesley Chapel.

She found the solution with a weave, human hair sewn onto her existing locks. She bought a pack and half of hair at $119 and paid $200 to have it sewn on by stylist Brigette Heard at Hair Expression of Carrollwood.

The weave is easier to take care of than her own hair, says Lewis, who visits the salon weekly to have her long, silky strands shampooed and styled. "I love it. I just get up in the mornings, brush it and go. I can do so much with it."

Lewis, whose 15- and 12-year-old daughters also have weaves, is among a growing number of women who have turned to weaves to give their natural locks a rest from chemical relaxers and heat styling. A weave gives many women something Mother Nature didn't: endless styling options.

"Weaves give women hope," says Theresa Henry, stylist and owner of Hair Expression, a salon that does three to four weaves a week. "With a weave, any hair style you dream of is possible."

Industry statistics show that about 34 percent of all hair products in the United States are purchased by black women, making black hair care a $9 billion dollar industry. The new Chris Rock documentary "Good Hair," which opened this week in Tampa, contends that hair weaves — worn by women of all ethnicities but especially black women — make up about 65 percent of hair care revenue.

Rock interviewed celebrities such as poet Maya Angelou, actresses Nia Long and Raven Symone, and the Rev. Al Sharpton to get to the root of black women's struggles with their hair, the money they're willing to pay to manage their manes and how hair affects the way they see themselves.

"Our self-esteem is wrapped up in our hair," Long says in the movie, and Henry agrees.

Black women "are very creative with their hair," she says. "Hair is like an art form for us. It's a form of self expression; it's a reflection of our culture. Some like the attention; some just want a different look."

But, Henry says, white women also get weaves, and she points to celebrities Britney Spears and Paris Hilton as examples, as well as her own clientele, which is about 40 percent white. "But they usually get it for more fullness and length. (Black women) get more creative and style it in ways that turn it into works of art."

Of course, there's a practical side for black women, too. Henry says many clients who relax their hair opt for weaves to get different color options without dying their own hair. Ethnic hair can't take color and a relaxer without serious damage, she says.

Joelene Blakely got a weave to add extra fullness. Years of using a glue-in weave, a hair extension that is applied close to the scalp using special glue, left her hair with little body.

With a weave, "I don't have to wait for my hair to grow back on its own," says Blakely, 37, of Clearwater. "When I leave the salon, it will look exactly like I want."

For six hours, Blakely patiently sat in the salon chair while Henry braided the hair along her scalp into tiny horizontal cornrows, then sewed tracks of human hair onto the cornrows using a special needle and nylon thread.

Afterward, she cut and shaped the hair into shoulder-length locks that fall gently around Blakely's face.

Blakely, who paid $30 for a pack of hair and $200 to have it sewn in, was thrilled with the results.

"My husband is going to love this," she says. "I can't stop looking at myself in the mirror."

Hair weaving is nothing new, but the techniques and hair have changed a great deal over the years. Here are a few things you should know if you're considering a weave:

Types of hair

Human hair: 100 percent real human hair usually comes from India and parts of Asia. Theresa Henry, stylist and owner of Hair Expressions of Carrollwood, prefers human hair because it can be colored, curled and heated, and it looks more natural. "The better the hair, the easier the maintenance," Henry says. Good quality human hair can start at $100 a pack.

Synthetic hair: Synthetic hair is made from different synthetic fibers and is much cheaper than human hair. Henry doesn't recommend synthetic hair for weaving because it doesn't last as long as human hair; it knots and doesn't look as natural. Because it's synthetic, you can't use heating appliances such as curling irons or color it. Synthetic hair runs about $10 to $20 a pack.

Types of weaves

Sew-in: This is the most popular type of weave because it's the most affordable, Henry says. Your natural hair is corn-rowed, and the weaving is done by sewing or whip stitching the weave onto the hair with a needle and cotton nylon thread. The sew-in method costs about $200 (not including the hair) and can last six to 12 weeks with proper care and maintenance.

Fusion: Several strands of hair are separated, and the hair extensions are attached to the hair in small bundles with a heat-activated glue or protein bond close to the scalp. Henry calls this the "Hollywood weave" because costs can run from $700 up to $2,000, depending on the length of the hair, number of bundles and amount of time it takes to weave. Fusion hair can last three to six months.

Quick weave: Your hair is tucked beneath a stocking cap, and the weave is glued onto the cap. A plastic cap must be put on your scalp to protect it and keep the glue from sticking to it. Henry recommends the cap be removed before bed so the weave can keep its shape longer. This type of weave starts at about $65.

No-braid: Small sections of hair are attached to a thread that's twined onto the hair. This weave starts at about $150, depending on the amount of hair you add. It can last about two months.

Glue bonding: A special hair glue is used to attach tracks of hair close to the scalp or onto a stocking cap. Costs start at $5 a row or $60 for a full head and can last up to two weeks.

Tips on caring for a weave

Weaves usually last from eight to 12 weeks, depending on the texture of your own hair, how fast it grows and any scalp issues you may have.

If your hair is in bad shape, damaged, breaking or thinning, it may not be a good idea to get hair extensions. A weave can put extra pressure on your hair and scalp that could lead to thinning and premature balding. A professional stylist should examine your hair and scalp before applying hair extensions.

Choose a weave that's compatible with your lifestyle. If you work out a lot, make sure you choose a texture and style that requires less heat and maintenance.

After your weave is in place, make sure it's cut and shaped correctly into a flattering style. "What's done after the weave is in place is as important as the weave itself," Henry says.

Stylists prefer that clients come to the salon weekly to have a weave shampooed and styled. If you must wash it at home, don't vigorously scrub your hair or scalp. Apply a gentle shampoo with no alcohol, and lightly stroke the hair and allow it to rinse down. Don't flip your hair upside down in the shower; it causes tangles.

Deep-condition your weave as you would your own hair. Also, make sure your own hair dries properly after you wash and condition. If not, you could encourage mildew.

Invest in a hooded dryer or use a blow dryer on a low setting. Clip varying sections up so that the heat can get to your hair and roots underneath. When you hair is dry, style as usual.

To prevent your weave from knotting and tangling, gently brush it several times a day using a brush with soft, rounded bristles. "Gentle, gentle, gentle is the key," Henry says. You don't want to loosen or damage your weave.