Annual deck inspections a good do-it-yourself project

Our deck is 18 years old. Our granddaughter, Ivy, is 9 months old.

Those numbers are totally incompatible when it comes to hanging a baby swing.

Our precious cargo would not be careening back and forth in her new red-and-blue bucket swing under any structure until we called in an expert inspector. Every post and joist must be sturdy, every surface board sound, every nail secure — we'd prefer there not even be a splinter.

We called Isaac Gonzalez, owner of Trini Home Inspection in Mechanicsville, for a deck check. Cost was $125, which included a written report on needed repairs and a binder of tips on home maintenance.

As a result of Gonzalez's inspection, we had a professional contractor do the following:

Replace the support posts under the deck and set the new ones in concrete. The wood in our existing beams had deteriorated below the dirt line because they were simply sunk into the soil instead of being built on concrete piers.

Replace split boards.

Level the deck, which was accomplished with the post replacement. It had begun to sink on one side.

Tap down loose nails and a few bucked boards.

We plan to replace our horizontal railings, which were common when our deck was built. The Virginia Uniform Statewide Building Code requires vertical rails that should be no more than 4 inches on center to prevent small children and pets from squeezing through. We also are overdue for a power wash.

Gonzalez recommends homeowners check their decks or have them professionally evaluated every year. Inspection is an easy do-it-yourself project, he said, although repairs should be handled by a contractor.

Following is what we learned about how to evaluate your deck:

Examine surface boards, railings and steps for signs of stress — rotting, sagging, splitting or swaying. Pay special attention to areas that tend to remain damp or are in contact with fasteners. Check for small holes in wood, which might indicate insects. If you find signs of insect damage, schedule a visit from a pest-control expert.

Check structural supports for signs of decayed wood, insect infestation or animal damage. Use a screwdriver or ice pick to penetrate the wood at various intervals. If you can easily penetrate about a half-inch or more, or if the wood feels soft and spongy, decay may be present and posts should be replaced.

Inspect the area under your deck with a flashlight. Scrutinize the ledger board, a common source of deck failure. Be sure the flashing, a metal or plastic water guard between the house and ledger board is sound and firmly in place. Consider adding or replacing flashing if you notice areas that are allowing water to collect.

Look for loose or corroded fasteners — nails, screws and anchors — that could allow the deck to partially collapse. Tighten bolts with a wrench. Hammer in nails that have popped up or pull them out and drive in screws at least as long as the nails. Screws are stronger and won't pop as the boards flex with heat and humidity. Screws that have worked loose should be twisted back in place with a screwdriver or a drill with a screwdriver attachment. Be careful not to strip screws. If you do, you'll need to buy a slightly larger replacement screw. Replace any fastener that appears corroded.

Examine the deck for splinters. Cut away splinters at the head of the split and sand the remaining rough edges with an 80-grit abrasive sandpaper. Gluing a split may look better, but usually doesn't last.

Clean the deck thoroughly. Use a flat tool to remove debris between deck boards. Once a year, give the deck a power wash. Gonzalez suggests renting a power sprayer from a hardware or home center and concocting a cleaning solution of half household bleach and half water. He recommends using a flat nozzle and water pressure of 1,500 psi. Keep the nozzle 3 to 4 inches away from the deck; any closer might cause splintering. If you prefer not to use a power sprayer, clean the deck with warm, soapy water and a scrub brush. Rinse with a garden hose to remove soap and loosened dirt, grime, mold and mildew. Once a deck is repaired and cleaned, consider sealing it to protect the wood.